FH6 Modification Guide — What to Upgrade First
New to upgrading cars in Forza Horizon? This guide covers exactly what to upgrade first and how to build competitive cars without wasting credits.
Upgrade Priority Order
For a balanced build (works for 90% of cars and events):
| Priority | Upgrade | Why | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tires | Best performance-per-credit upgrade in the game | 5k-15k |
| 2 | Drivetrain | LSD + transmission unlock better control | 8k-15k |
| 3 | Suspension | Race suspension transforms handling | 10k-15k |
| 4 | Weight Reduction | Every kg removed improves everything | 5k-20k |
| 5 | Engine | Only upgrade after handling is sorted | 10k-80k |
| 6 | Brakes | Useful for high-power builds, skip for low PI | 5k-12k |
| 7 | Aero | Only needed for S1+ class builds | 5k-12k |
| 8 | Roll Cages | Adds weight — only for safety, not performance | 3k |
Tire Guide
Best upgrades in the game. Tire compound determines your grip level:
| Tire Type | Grip | PI Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stock | Low | 0 | Drifting, low-class racing |
| Sport | Medium | +20-40 | A class and below, daily driving |
| Race | High | +30-60 | S1 class and above, competitive racing |
| Off-Road | Medium (dirt) | +15-30 | Dirt, cross-country events |
| Rally | Medium (mixed) | +20-35 | Mixed surface events |
| Snow | Medium (snow) | +20-30 | Hokkaido winter events |
| Drag | High (straight) | +10-20 | Drag racing only |
Rule of thumb: If you only do one upgrade, make it Sport or Race tires.
Transmission Guide
| Type | Best For | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Sport Transmission | Budget builds, casual racing | 5k |
| Race Transmission | Competitive builds, fine-tuning gears | 10k |
| Drivetrain Swap (AWD) | Grip, rally, wet weather | 15-25k |
| Drivetrain Swap (RWD) | Drifting, racing (advanced) | 15-25k |
Suspension Guide
| Type | Best For | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Sport Suspension | Budget builds, good balance | 8k |
| Race Suspension | Best handling, fully adjustable | 15k |
| Drift Suspension | Maximum angle, drift zones | 10k |
| Off-Road Suspension | Cross-country, rough terrain | 10k |
| Rally Suspension | Mixed surfaces | 12k |
Common Build Recipes
Budget A Class Build (40-60k)
- Sport tires (8k)
- Sport suspension (8k)
- Race transmission (10k)
- LSD (5k)
- Weight reduction stage 1 (5k)
- Engine stage 1 (10k)
Result: Competitive A class car for ~46k, ~+80 PI
Competitive S1 Build (100-150k)
- Race tires (12k)
- Race suspension (15k)
- Race transmission (10k)
- Race brakes (8k)
- LSD (5k)
- Weight reduction stage 2 (10k)
- Engine stage 2 (30k)
- Aero kit (8k)
Result: Strong S1 contender for ~98k, ~+120 PI
Common Mistakes
| Mistake | Why It's Bad |
|---|---|
| Engine first, everything else last | More power without handling upgrades = undriveable |
| Max PI without balance | A car at PI 800 with bad tires loses to a PI 750 with great tires |
| Adding aero to low-class cars | Aero adds PI without much benefit below A class |
| Ignoring weight reduction | Lighter cars corner, brake, and accelerate better |
| Over-upgrading for the class | 10-20 PI under the cap often yields better performance |
| AWD swap on everything | AWD adds PI weight — only swap if the event needs it |
Quick Rules
- Tires first, always — The single most impactful upgrade
- Don't max out the PI class — Leave 10-20 PI headroom for tuning
- Light is fast — Weight reduction before power upgrades
- Build for the event — A drift build is different from a track build
- Test before racing — Try your build in free roam or Rivals first